Sunday, September 7, 2008


Riding the wave
By Udena R. Attygalle

Day 1

I was hanging on desperately to one end of a harness, while the other end was connected to a speed boat. Only a pair of unstable and absurdly long skis stopped me from speeding to the bottom of the lagoon.

Water was splashing everywhere and through the froth I saw the people on the boat waving, trying to signal to me. It was time, I gathered, to stop crouching and get to a standing posture. ImageSlowly I lifted myself onto my knees. And then came a jerk. I felt the harness fly away from my grasp. For a brilliant few seconds, I was no longer tethered to the speed boat, no longer water-skiing. I was flying, head first, free style! Then with a sickening splash, I felt myself deep in the brackish water. Yes, that was yours truly attempting to water-ski as The Sunday Times crew went down Aluthgama way for a two-day water sport try-out.

It all began with a chance meeting with Benny Fernando, a national water sports instructor and professional deep sea diver. A man who had spent most of his life on water (or below it!). Benny suggested we do a feature on water sports. A week later we were on our way to Aluthgama,where Benny has his boathouse.

As we motored along the Galle Road, the rains descended. But when we arrived at Benny's boathouse, the skies were clear.There are over 10 boathouses surrounding the Aluthgama lagoon; all with facilities for water sports. Other places where such facilities can be found are Kaluwanmodera, Negombo, Hikkaduwa and Trincomalee.

A word of warning though, the rates for accommodation around the Aluthgama lagoon are high. The water sports too will cost you a pretty penny, depending on the activity.

Water-skiing, which was our first try out, costs around Rs 450 for 4 1/2 rounds. For a beginner that would mean around three falls into the water (with a life jacket of course). The main problem after one of those falls is getting the skis back on.

The impact had thrown mine some 10 metres from where I landed. Because the water is buoyant (and because your legs are not!), it's a struggle to get the second ski on, while your other leg is floating away in the opposite direction. And then you have to stay balanced in a crouched position with your hand around your knees while the boat picks up speed.

Next Geeth Fernando, Benny's son took us canoeing. It was like going on a slow motion train after dropping out of a bullet train. The canoe we used was meant for two people. I took the rear seat. Paddling in a synchronized effort, we traversed the lagoon. "Paddle without straining," Benny shouted from the shore. Too late: I was already worn out. But then I was in the rear, while the guy in front did all the hard work (the paddler in the rear is the one that steers the canoe. Back paddling on one side turns the boat to that side. Another way to turn is to paddle forward together, only from the side opposite to which the boat should turn).

The paddle board was my favourite. Ours was a converted surf board with a shallow hollow to fit into.It was much faster than the canoe and felt easier on the arms! After doing a few rounds in the lagoon, Geeth and I took the board out to sea.

Now this was fun. Before we began, Geeth gave me the advice "always face the waves head on or you will fall off", the truth of which I learned on my very first attempt. But the feeling when you climb over and above one of those nasty waves is fabulous.

The hiring cost for a paddle board is between Rs 100 to 150 an hour; for a canoe it's Rs 250 an hour.

Next we took up body surfing. We were riding the waves on our tummies on a board. As we waded around 20 metres into the sea, we were constantly pounded by the surf. After spotting a good wave we got on our boards and tried to paddle, while the wave would hit us from behind. But we would go only five metres or so, and then the wave would pass us. Geeth, on the other hand, was riding the wave right up to the shore line. We were doing something wrong.

But it was now time to leave as the sun was dipping to the horizon. We would have to try again tomorrow. ( Body surfing will cost you Rs 100 an hour).

Day 2

Day two began with a pair of very sore arms. Activity number 1 was jet scooters. Jet scooters are those motorbike like contraptions that you may have seen on Baywatch or the movie "Waterworld".

The scooter is jet powered and can go extremely fast. The turns are the best though. A U turn at full-speed is a possibility, unlike on a bike. And when you tilt you know you can topple, but then it's only into the water. The jets are made so that the engine stalls if you fall. The jet scooters cost around Rs 1000 for 15 minutes. Next we did a bit of Kayaking.We used a double Kayak, and I hopped on to the rear seat (you know why ) Parking the Kayak on the middle of the lagoon and dozing off would be a fine idea, I thought after a while. But the roar of a jet scooter passing by put paid to that. And then we were off again to the beach to ride the waves. This time we were going to do it right. I spotted a big one.

Waiting till it was almost on top of me I jumped on the board and started paddling like mad. I felt myself inching forward. And then it hit. It lifted me and I was screaming away towards the beach, riding the big blue ocean! And as the wave broke,the blue water turned to white and I was still going. And then the wave grew weaker and weaker till it no longer had the strength to carry me. It receded; leaving me almost at the beach. Lying there with the now gentle waves lapping at us ,we knew the time to leave had come. As we left and the waves washed over our footsteps, we promised ourselves we'd return some day to this place of surf, sand and sport.

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